The Bridge Inn is clever, mighty clever. It somehow contrives to be all things to all people, in the nicest possible way. In winter it's a cosy bolt-hole from the worst of the Exmoor weather – snug and warm, with two woodburners and a leather sofa into which you can sink and read your paper. Come summer, everyone spills outside: children and dogs splash in the river opposite or feed the ducks and a lively hubbub of banter weaves among the outdoor tables and benches.

It's a true locals' pub (fielding a team for tug of war and creating its own float for the carnival) yet, equally, it's a welcoming retreat for tourists, however they choose to arrive. Some hike in over the moor, while others canoe in via the river or meander up from the nearby caravan site. It can be quiet and civilised with good conversation over a decent glass of Rioja, or lively and animated, with regular folk nights and pub quizzes.

People pop in for a few drinks or come singly, in pairs or mob-handed to eat. There's no separate dining room, just one L-shaped bar with a hodgepodge of tables and a nice big blackboard from which to choose.

Food choices are equally accommodating. The popular pie menu (£6.20 each) offers robust ballast for a return to the hills, the water, or just back to work. There are plenty of classic crowd-pleasers (ham, egg and chips or filled rolls) while smarter choices include monkfish fillet with broad bean purée and chips (£9.95). One small niggle is that the pies come solo and adding £1.80 for chips and £1 for mushy peas seems somewhat steep. But it's nit-picking and this truly is an excellent pub.

One area in which they are totally single-minded is the environment. Their Green Tourism Business Award plaque shows their commitment: everything (including waste oil) is recycled, light bulbs are all low-energy and food and beer miles are as low as possible. The bittersweet Exmoor Ale comes from nearby Wiveliscombe and the fruity Otter Ale from just over the border in Devon.

So on a soggy midweek lunchtime in the depths of winter, the place was packed solid. Perhaps you really can please all the people all the time.